Now we're getting somewhere. Of, course, I'm still trying to tie down exactly what happened in Mineral Wells, but I'm made my way onward to the pride of the Texas panhandle - Palo Duro Canyon State Park.
Often called "The Grand Canyon of Texas", Palo Duro is indeed the second largest canyon in the U.S. at over 27 thousand acres. There's so much history and beauty contained with it's variegated stone walls that I could have spent weeks just exploring all of it.
But eight days was plenty of time to get in miles of hiking, exceptional and breathtaking views, and of course, a look at what the CCC accomplished. And they accomplished a lot.
Beginning in 1933, 4 teams of 200 men each worked in the park, rotating in and out in 5 month stints. Over the course of the next 4 years, the crews built roads, trails, a main lodge, multiple cabins, an amphitheater, bridges, a ranger station and more.
Like other CCC constructed parks, Palo Duro was built of native materials and designed to blend with the local environment. As a result, the structures are built of stacked stone from the canyon itself. And in an inspired move, the built the Coronado Lodge and 3 cabins directly into the canyon rim, giving visitors amazing views.
Most of the work done by the CCC in the park is still evident, and in use, today. The Coronado Lodge is now the visitor center, the Ranger Station still stands at the portal to the park, along with and adjacent restroom structure. And in the Cow Camp at the end of the Park road (the same road built by the CCC, although many times repaved), visitors can still stay in cabins constructed in the late 30's.
On the CCC trail an intrepid hiker can climb from the canyon floor 600 feet to the rim while crossing 4 foot bridges built by the CCC (well, you can cross three anyway. One had been cordoned off, but you pass right next to it.) There's even an old fireplace, all that's left of the main CCC camp.
As I mentioned there's a lot more to Palo Duro that just the CCC work. 16 trails crisscross the park, ranging from the flat easy terrain of the 1/2 mile nature trail to the desert floor/mesa climb of the 3 mile Lighthouse trail and to the intense climb of the Rock Garden trail and the amazing views of the Comanche and Fortress Rims trails, both about 4 miles each. I counted myself accomplished after having hiked 11 trails in the week I was there, leaving both easy and difficult ones as an excuse for a return trip.
And history? Oh yeah, this place has a bunch. From Charles Goodnight (remember him? He of the Goodnight/Loving Trail and the state Bison herd. look elsewhere in the blog for missives about both) to the Battle of Palo Duro canyon, the final campaign against the Southern Plains Indians, the canyon has played host to myriad historical events. Most of that is honored with plaques explaining them. There's even a preserved dugout cabin used by Goodnight's cowboys.
And now for the "bit more" part: The city of Canyon is host to several New Deal projects.
On the Campus of West Texas A&M University (formerly West Texas Teachers College) sits Cousins Hall, which was expanded using Public Works Administration funds. PWA also funded the construction of El Pueblos, as set of Spanish Style cottages on the campus for married students. The cottages were relocated a few miles away and are still in use as residences today.
Elsewhere on the WTAMU campus is the Panhandle Plains Historical Museum. I visited this august facility early on in may travels and became entranced by its huge and ecclectic collection of history as it relates to the area, including early oil exploration, the dinosaurs, and a pretty cool windmill display. But what really tripped my trigger was the many vignettes describing life on the plains set up in the basement. All of these were originally built in the 30's, but I didn't know at the time they, and the museum itself was a New Deal project. As an added bonus, there are two murals funded by New Deal money within the museum.
Canyon, and WTAMU (see a pattern here?) is also home to other halls, murals and civic improvements thanks to the new deal. I think I leave some secret. Maybe encourage a visit?
Alright, that's enough for now. I'm hitting the road again. Next stop Colorado City and Big Spring. Until then...
Later folks.
OH, WAIT! I plumb forgot the most famous of attractions for Palo Duro State Park. Every Summer, from June 1 to Mid August, TEXAS, the outdoor musical draws visitors by the thousands to the park's amphitheater for a dramatic homage to the life, history and pageantry of the panhandle of Texas. The show has been going since 1966, and is yet another reason for me to return.